Where exactly is Water Island?
Water Island is about 1 mile south of St. Thomas in the U.S. Virgin
Islands. It is nestled snugly in the harbor of the main town, Charlotte
Amalie. You can only get to Water Island by ferry.
St. Thomas itself is located about 70 miles east of Puerto Rico. On
a really clear day, you can see the mountains of Puerto Rico
from the porch of the house. The U.S. Virgin islands are comprised of
St. Thomas, St. Croix and St. John. In 1997, Water Island officially
became the fourth one, but no one calls it that.
Water Island is about 500 acres, with nearly 100 houses on it. The
population fluctuates between 50 - 75 in the summer months to up to
200 in the winter.
Ok, on the front web page, amongst all the flowery sales talk
you mentioned the phrase "Water Island is not for everyone". What exactly
do you mean by this?
Well, there are practically no amenities on Water Island (other than those
offered by nature). If you're looking for a partying nightlife, bars, clubs,
etc, this is not the place. Yes, you can do all that stuff on St. Thomas,
but you are limited by the ferry schedule.
Also, there is only one small store on the island. This means that you
can either buy your food and bring it over with you, or choose to have the
house provisioned for you before you arrive. It is not difficult, but it does
take some planning. For example, if you're cooking dinner and suddenly
realize that you forgot the butter, you can't just rush out to the 7/11
and get some. We learn to be creative and improvise in these cases.
Water Island presents a unique opportunity to re-connect with yourself,
a loved one or your family without any outside pressures. It is not "roughing
it" in any way, but it is also not being pampered like a big resort hotel.
You will get the experience of what it is actually like to live in paradise.
What's the weather like?
Right now? 82 degrees, mostly sunny, moderate trade winds. It is
always 82 degrees, mostly sunny, moderate trades.
Seriously, there is about a 7 or 8 degree difference between winter and summer
in the Caribbean. It never gets cold, and never seems to get too hot
(even in the middle of summer)
In winter, the temperature ranges from the early 70's in the evening
to around 82 in the middle of the day. At most, you might need a very
light sweater in the evenings. This is also the dry season. A light shower
in the afternoon is not uncommon, but it is usually sunny and dry. The water
temperature gets all the way down to 79 degrees. Most locals consider this
far to cold to swim. Yeah, right. I swim all year round.
In summer, the range is about 75 at night to 90 in the day. But because
you're surrounded by water and there is constant breeze, it never seems
that hot. I find that summer in the Caribbean is far more pleasant than
summer in New York City. My house is not air conditioned, and I've never
felt that it was necessary. Ceiling fans work great. Water temperature
climbs to about 82 degrees. Locals will start to swim again.
Hurricane season runs from June to the end of November. This is the
season where all the locals become amateur weather forecasters, and talk
is all about tropical waves off Africa, isobars, and pressure
ridges. This is also the wet season. It is not uncommon for a tropical
wave to bring several days of rain showers. Again, it usually doesn't
rain all day, just more than the average afternoon shower.
But if you want to check what the weather is like right now, check
out NOAA.
I'll bet is is 82 degrees, mostly sunny, moderate trades.
Bring Sunscreen!
Are the bugs bad?
Generally, no. During the dry season (winter), there are a few mosquitoes
but not too many. During the wet season, the mosquito population picks
up a little and can become annoying. This usually happens about a week
after a heavy rain. Mosquitoes are morning and evening feeders. They usually
won't bother you during the daytime.
On the beach around sunset there are the ever-present 'No-see-ums'.
These won't bother you during the daytime, or after sunset.
Of course, being in the tropics, there are a few cockroaches.
You have to be slightly fanatical about keeping food and garbage under
control. If you do that, you probably won't see any. Anyway, the lizards
keep the cockroach population under control.
What is there to do on Water Island?
Relax on the beach, search the windward side beach for cool shells
and other washed up stuff, hike, bike, talk, enjoy the sunsets, snorkel,
SCUBA dive,
drink fruity blender drinks, etc. See the Day Trips
suggestion page for some more ideas.
Do I need my passport?
Technically, any proof of citizenship will do... drivers license and
birth certificate, passport, green card, etc. I always bring my passport,
because it seems to make the Customs/Immigration thing go a little quicker.
Also, if you plan to try one of the day trips to
the British Virgin Islands, then a passport is highly recommended and
you'll get a cool new stamp in it.
So there's no food to be had on Water Island...?
Well, not exactly. Every Saturday night one of the local residents (Heidi)
brings her restaurant, Heidi's Honeymoon Grill,
to the beach. She will
usually serve 3 entrees, a meat dish (usually a great steak grilled to
perfection), a chicken or fish dish and a vegetarian dish. Most of the
island residents and their guests come down for her gourmet food served
on the beach. Heidi is an excellent chef!
So picture yourself sitting on a white sandy beach, eating a gourmet
meal by the light of tiki torches, listening to the gentle waves lapping
the shore nearby and looking at the moon and stars through the palm trees.
It really is an incredible experience!
Then on Sundays, Heidi grills burgers, chicken, and other stuff all
day on the beach.
Prices are reasonable, the food is great and the libations
flow freely.
Well, how do you shop for food then?
There is a new small store on Water Island! They stock a variety of
the basics (milk, bread), beer, rum, vodka, etc and mixers. There is a
Deli counter where you can get custom made sandwiches, and a pizza
oven. The will also be glad to get you anything special that you may
need.
There are several other options for food shopping as well. First,
there is the Gourmet Gallery, which
is right next to Tickles where the Water Island ferry docks. This can't
be beat for convenience. It is very pricey, though. It mostly caters to
the Mega Yachts (yachts over 100ft) that stay in Crown Bay Marina, so
it carries some very exclusive and exotic foods. You can get almost
anything here, even that $500.00 bottle of wine you wanted for dinner
tonight
The other option is the Pueblo store. It is about 1/4 mile walk
from Crown Bay. This is a sort of normal grocery store. Prices are
better here, but the quality of the meats and vegetables can be
hit or miss. And you have to carry whatever you buy back to the
Ferry.
I've gotten into the habit of buying most 'basics' at the Pueblo,
and then finishing off at the Gourmet Gallery for the better quality
stuff. I also tend to buy the lighter stuff at Pueblo, and heaver
stuff at Gourmet Gallery. It's worth it to me to pay a little extra
and not have to carry heavy stuff.
Can you drink the water?
Good question. Like many Caribbean islands, there is no ground water,
well water, or municipal water system on Water Island. All water is
rain water, caught off the roof and stored in large cisterns under
the house. I've never had a problem drinking it, and none of my guests
have reported any problems. If you have a weak stomach however, you
might want to consider bringing bottled water from St. Thomas.
Which brings up another interesting point. The house has cistern storage
for over 20,000 gallons of rain water. If it doesn't rain, that's all there
is. So us locals tend to be fairly conservative on water usage, and ask
that our guests be the same. Take short showers, don't leave the water
running while brushing the teeth, don't waste water while washing the
dishes, that kinda thing.
You don't have to go crazy. I mean, 20,000 gallons is actually a lot of
water. But I do ask that you be aware of your water usage.
By the way, this is how you tell a local from a tourist. When it rains,
the locals are the ones that are smiling and happy. All that water is going
into our cisterns. It means that we can actually take a shower and flush
the toilet! It takes so little to keep us happy.
Whats the history of Water Island
The Virgin Islands were owned by, at any given time, Spain, France,
England, Holland, Denmark and the US. In the 1600's St. Thomas was
a major slave trading port and a pirate refuge, and Water
Island probably played a role in that. No treasure has been found. Yet.
But there are a few interesting pirate legends.
More recently, the US bought the Virgins from Denmark during WWI to keep
them from becoming a submarine base for the Germans. The US Army built a
small fort, Fort Segara, on Water Island (ruins of which can still be
explored at the top of the highest hill).
Water Island was turned over to the US Department of the Interior after
WWII. Somewhere in the '50s, a guy named Walter Phillips came to the USVI,
saw Water Island and fell in love with it, left New York and moved down.
He leased the island from the Dept. Of the Interior, started a small hotel,
got some friends down and cleaned up the place
and the Water Island community began. Mr. Phillips stayed down on Water Island
until his death a few years ago.
In 1997, the US Dept of the Interior turned Water island over to the
government of St. Thomas.
There is a book by Herman Wouk (War and Remembrance, The Caine Mutiny ...)
called "Don't Stop the Carnival". It is a fictional account of a New York
guy who moves down to the Caribbean and runs a small hotel on an Island
just like Water Island. Many residents believe that it is loosely based
on Water Island. There are way too many similarities, and Mr. Wouk was
living on St. Thomas when he wrote it...
How do you get around on Water Island and St. Thomas?
A wise man once said, "Everything is within walking distance, if you
have the time". On Water Island, a car is supplied with the house. You
can drive (on the left!) or walk anywhere
On St. Thomas, things get a little more complicated. You can call
a taxi to take you just about anywhere,
but it'll cost you. Calling a taxi is a little strange. They are sometimes
difficult to understand, as they're all radio dispatched. When you call,
tell them where you are (probably at Tickles in Crown Bay if you just got
off the ferry), where you're going, and how many people in your party.
Then wait while he broadcasts to all his units to see if any can get
there. You'll hear all sides of the conversation. Hopefully he'll have
someone available. He will tell you the van number and color. Do not
get into any other taxi. You can also ask the bartender at Tickles
to call a taxi for you.
For the more intrepid (or frugal), another option exists. These
are called 'Safari Buses'. These are open covered pickup trucks with
seats in the back for up to 15 people. They run a specific route...
either "town" or "country". The country route will take you all the
way to the east end (RedHook, for the St. John ferry or Duffy's Love Shack)
and around the island. These only cost a dollar.
There are two types of Safari buses, ones that pick up the cruise ship
passengers and take them from the ship to town and back (these are
expensive), and the local ones. There is no visible difference
between these types. If the driver leans out the window and yells "Back
to the ship?" at you, it is a tourist safari. Don't get on it. You're
not going back to the ship.
Pick up the local type safari to town on the road just north of
Niski Plaza. Have someone at Tickles show you where.
Walking into town is another option. It will take just under an
hour, and the sun can be brutal! Wear sunscreen. This shouldn't be
attempted after dark.
Is St. Thomas safe?
Generally, as long as you stay in the 'tourist' areas it is safe.
If you stray into some of the stranger areas it could get a little
dangerous. But that's like everywhere. New York City is safe as long
as you don't stray.
That being said, avoid walking around too much after dark.
Water Island is completely safe. There is usually no need to lock
the house, and we all leave the keys in the cars (not like anyone would
want to steal a typical Water Island Car)
How do I communicate with the outside world?
Not exactly sure why you would want to do that.
The USVI are part of the US Postal system, zip code 00802. No international
stamps required. Phones are part of the US as well, area code 340. Internet
connections are available through ATT WorldNet and others. Internet access
is available in Crown Bay (St. Thomas Communications, next to Tickles) and
there are several Internet cafes downtown.
The house has a TV, but there are only 2 stations available. VCR and
DVD are hooked up, so you can rent movies.
In the near future, the house will be wired for high speed Internet
access. I hope. Things happen slow down here
Who are you?
Me? Well, I'm just another bozo on the beach